Tucked in the forests of Barangay Malihud in Bataraza, the southernmost municipality of mainland Palawan are two of its precious wonders, Kapangyan Falls and Lalatuan Falls. However, there were very little information about Kapangyan Falls and Lalatuan Falls online. That’s why finding an article about the hidden gems of Bataraza was a huge step forward in making my DIY solo side trip to Bataraza possible.
How I Ended Up in Bataraza?
I planned for a solo travel to the islands of Balabac but since the island hopping activities would cost me a fortune, I have decided to join a group for the tour. However, the problem was that the group that I will be joining would be arriving two days after my scheduled arrival in Puerto Princesa. While waiting for them (group), I have decided to look for another activity and Kapangyan Falls and Lalatuan Falls in the Municipality of Bataraza caught my attention.
After some last minute communication through text messages, I met with tour guide, Kuya Recto Gervacio, the following day around 8:30 am at the jump off point to Kapangyan Falls along the national highway approximately one and a half kilometers away from Bataraza town proper. As soon as we met, we started to walk on a rough gravel-filled road towards the registration area.
He asked me if where I would want to go first, Kapangyan Falls or Lalatuan Falls, but I let him to decide. He suggested to go to Lalatuan Falls first which was farther then we will finish our journey in Kapangyan Falls, to which I agreed.
According to the article that I have read, Kapangyan Falls is about an hour or two away from the jump off point and Lalatuan Falls is just about another hour away from Kapangyan Falls. With those details, I already conditioned my mind for a high probability of a long and strenuous walk.
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On the first thirty minutes of our trek, we already made a few stops mainly due to my lack of exercise or any kind of physical activity. 😊 I was gasping for air even if we were only walking at a normal pace on an uneven road that ascends gradually. It gave me a hard time to keep up with my guide, Kuya Recto, who was older than me. Unlike the waterfalls in Cebu, Bataraza does not have habal-habal to service their visitors to the registration area. Tricycles would not dare to go that path as well because they are not familiar with the trail.
Along the way, we have met some of the native Palaw’an who came all the way from the mountain carrying heavy logs on their shoulders as part of their day-to-day task. They were speaking in their native tongue but Kuya Recto always mentioned Kapangyan Falls and Lalatuan Falls so I assumed that he was telling them that he would be accompanying me to those places.
After an hour of walking, we have reached the “parking lot” as Kuya Recto calls it. However, still not quite the registration area that we need to reach, but he said that we were already close. From the parking lot, we followed the trail off the main road into a narrower footpath with short bushes and denser foliage. We have crossed shallow rivers and a series of up and down slopes and finally twenty more minutes later, we have reached the registration area – a kubo (hut) in the middle of the forest that serves as the house of the logbook keeper.
Off to Lalatuan Falls
After writing my information in the logbook, we took a short rest and continued on our way. Kuya Recto said that we still have a lot to cover and we better get going. We left the registration area at around 10 a.m. and went straight to our first destination that is Lalatuan Falls. At first, we were following an established footpath with short undergrowth then all of a sudden, Kuya Recto changed course and disappeared behind the thick leaves. Obviously, they do not use that route very often because there were no tracks leading to it. This is getting too serious, I said to myself but I had no other option but to follow him. As I pushed the tree branches aside, I was welcomed by my greatest nemesis – a steep uphill trail.
The then short bushes became taller and were already scratching my limbs on my every stride. On many occasions, I had to stop in the middle of steep ascends to catch my breath while holding on tree trunks. I was telling my guide many times to slow down as I needed to take a quick rest and he was very understanding. He even gave me some tips on how to recover faster.
To make our journey lighter and for me not to feel too tired, Kuya Recto would share stories as we moved along. He has an abundance of knowledge on different things like climbing, trekking, jungle survival, various types of plants and its use and he even shared his political views and a touch of his personal life. Kuya Recto is one of the two tour guides in Bataraza. He speaks passionately about their place and I can sense that he genuinely cares about the natural resources of Bataraza.
The forests of Bataraza is nothing but impressive. Humongous hardwood trees are commonly seen in the area, a sign that it is very well-protected despite the fact that there is a small portion of the mountain where Kaingin is being practiced. Hopefully, it can be stopped completely and the local government can find an alternative way for the people who depend on it to make ends meet.
Throughout our travel, I never asked him if “are we there yet?” simply because I do not want to put unnecessary pressure on myself. At the same time, he did not give me any time frame as to how far do we still have to cover. Instead, he just gave me updates from time to time of our current location as well as where else we need to pass before reaching our destination.
We went past the native Palaw’an’s small village on a flat portion of the mountain then we went further into the woods. The soil was damper and the path became darker as the heat of the sun cannot penetrate through the huge and imposing hardwood trees. When we heard the rushing water, Kuya Recto said that it was already Lalatuan Falls. We only have to finish our final descend and we will be reaching our target destination but he reminded me to be more careful from then on out as the rocks are too slippery and the trail can be more challenging.
True enough, just moments later, the route became narrower and steeper and the rocks became sharper and more slippery. There were no sharp flight of stairs nor any makeshift handrails to assist our descent like the one in Laguna’s Kilangin Falls. I had to closely watch where I should put my foot and where to hold to avoid slipping and falling. I had to sit on the ground filled with mud and rocks to put my foot safely onto the next rock to get down without falling to a cliff.
Kuya Recto insisted many times to carry my bag when he saw that I was struggling big time but I did not take his offer. I brought all those things with me so I will carry them all the way. My stuff weighed less than 10 kilos anyway, but it felt like I was carrying the whole world on my shoulders. To motivate me, in a way, Kuya Recto shared that there were even harder trails going to Lalatuan Falls during the early years. They had to follow the river passing on slippery boulders as they head upstream. Kuya Recto surveyed the area and found an easier path, which was the one that we took.
Before reaching Lalatuan Falls, we came across another waterfall. Kuya Recto calls it the Hidden Falls; it can only be seen from a higher altitude. From the ground, it cannot be viewed because it is covered by a massive wall. However, due to the movement of the rock over the years, the waterfall is partially seen now from the ground.
After that nerve-wracking, heart racing descent, I had to sit down as my knees were shaking. Kuya Recto said that we were almost there. We only had fifty more meters to go. It encouraged me to muster all my strength and gave it one last push. I was focusing on where to step next and was looking down the whole time and when I held my head up, I was astounded. I felt relieved and didn’t make any more steps. I sat on the big rock, held my camera and took a shot of the scenic Lalatuan Falls.
Time check, it was 11:33 a.m. After three grueling hours of trekking the forests of Barangay Malihud, Lalatuan Falls was right there in front of me.
According to Kuya Recto, the drop measures at approximately 120 feet high. Its plunge pool is at 5 meters deep and 5-6 meters wide. It was so high that it cannot fit my screen and I had to switch to my 18-55 mm lens to capture its entirety. Its cold water has a deep shade of green with a hint of blue. The water cascades on a huge rock wall with patches of moss and other trailing plants. Halfway, before the water touches the plunge pool, is a wide shallow chamber of sorts. Small frogs frolic under the colossal rocks that are spread over the shallow parts and edges of the basin.
The sound of the flowing water felt so serene. There was no one else around the area but my guide and me. Lalatuan Falls being too far and hard to reach had a great advantage for it has been well preserved and sustained.
The Legend of Lalatuan Falls
Why was it called Lalatuan Falls? If you are thinking of Lato or seaweeds, then you are right.
During the olden days, the ancient people inhabiting the area believed in fairies and other spiritual beings. They have prayed hard to show them where they can plant the Lato (seaweeds) and make it their livelihood. The fairies granted the people’s wish and provided a suitable place where they can plant and grow the Lato. The Lato flourished and the villagers were rewarded with sustainable resources.
Eventually, the place became a landmark. Every time someone was asked if where they were going, the reply was “I will be heading to the place where we grow Lato”, “Saan ka pupunta? Doon sa may Lalatuan”
However, the people of the village got so greedy and the fairies punished them. The water from the mountain came down to the village and washed out all of the Lato that they had planted. Now, the Lato and the whole village were all gone. What was left was just the name and the strong surge of water that flows from the mountain and that was how the name Lalatuan Falls came to be.
How to Get to Lalatuan Falls
From Puerto Princesa Airport, take a tricycle to San Jose Transport Terminal (150 pesos). Ride a van bound for Rio Tuba (400 pesos). Tell the driver to drop you off in Kapangyan jump off point going to Barangay Malihud, along the national highway approximately one and a half kilometers away from Bataraza town proper. Travel Time from Puerto Princesa to Bataraza is approximately 4-5 hours.
There are no prominent signs leading to the jump off point except for this water supply system project tarpaulin which can be seen on the right side of the road if you’re heading to Rio Tuba.
Useful Information
Aside from Lalatuan Falls and Kapangyan Falls there are also other attractions in Bataraza, Palawan that are worth visiting.
- Ursula Island Bird Sanctuary – visitors must secure a permit from the DENR before they can visit the island.
- Gangub Cave in Barangay Sandoval
- A newly discovered waterfall by the forest rangers of Mt. Mantalingahan. It’s in the outskirts of Bataraza and the trail is more difficult. They said that the trek can take up to 5 hours but it is more beautiful than Lalatuan Falls. They call it Magot Falls (not sure if I had it spelled correctly).
If you want to visit Lalatuan Falls and other sites in Bataraza, get in touch with Bataraza Municipal Tourism Office. You may reach them via their Facebook Page
MUNICIPAL TOURISM OFFICE, 2nd floor, Municipal Hall Building of Bataraza Palawan. Mobile #: +63 905 156 2365
Prior to my visit, I got in touch with Sir Eric Selga. He no longer works in the tourism office at that time however, he was kind enough to assist me to arrange for Kuya Recto to meet me up the following day. His contact number is +63 912 710 0305/+63 905 588 2848.
It is generally safe to visit this part of Palawan but it is always important to coordinate with the Municipal Tourism Office before heading to Lalatuan or Kapangyan Falls.
There is NO registration fee, but Guide fee is encouraged – be generous enough, the trail is difficult.
Only Take Photos. Kill Nothing but Time, Collect Only Memories. Leave Only Footprints.
BE A RESPONSIBLE TRAVELER and LEAVE NO TRACE.
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How about you? Have you been to Bataraza? Have you trekked to Lalatuan Falls? How was your experience? We would love to hear from you. Share your thoughts.
very detailed story to the waterfalls giving me an idea whether to pursue the same trip but i love finding waterfalls. how much did you give to Manong tour guide?
Thank you. You’re right, it’s exciting to discover new places that are not yet known to a lot of people. I think I gave Kuya 500 Php then we ate merienda after our trek.
Southern Palawan has lots of hidden falls.. starting from Narra going south
You’re right. Palawan is not just all about the beautiful beaches that we usually hear of.